Road Food Revival
July 29, 2008
By Andrea Farnum
Illustration by Catherine Lane/Jennifer Borton
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We all have one — some even have more than one. We all have a quintessential food memory steeped in nostalgia that defines our childhood. Some memories involve grandmas in aprons hovering over stoves; others are tied to the old-time eateries of our youth. Whether it was a diner, a hot dog stand, an ice cream truck or a seafood shack that etched itself into your memory, the place was colorful, local, one-of-a-kind and absolutely authentic.
Mine was Minnie’s Candy Store and Soda Fountain in the Bronx. In my mind it’s still 1967 and I’m on Archer Avenue, just down the block from P.S. 102. Minnie’s was my confectionary nirvana. I’d walk there after school clutching a sweaty nickel that would buy me my sweet obsession. Nothing summons my childhood better than memories of spinning on a red leather counter stool sipping an egg cream.
For you foodies out there, a true Bronx egg cream does not contain either eggs or cream but consists of a mixture of chocolate syrup, milk and seltzer water that when stirred together forms a light-as-air yet syrupy concoction. And at a nickel apiece, the price was right.
Alas, Minnie’s, like many of her counterparts, is long gone, either out of business or fashion or both. But not all the bastions of our culinary past have disappeared. Some hold on still, serving their tried-and-true fare to the locals — and even attracting out-of-towners who appreciate culinary folk art.
The Road Food phenomenon is booming: Thousands of travelers plan yearly excursions just to experience an authentic lobster roll in Maine, a cheese steak in Philly, real BBQ down South and, yes, even the time-honored crab cake in Maryland.
Here’s a list of just some of Maryland’s standout “roadside” eateries. They are not only true to their roots, but their owners work hard to maintain the establishments’ unique character. Next time you eat out, consider passing on the chain restaurants based in faraway states and enjoy what springs from your own backyard. Remember — road food is the real deal. (For more road food picks, visit www.roadfood.com.)
Attman’s Delicatessen
1019 E. Lombard St.
Baltimore 21202
410-563-2666
www.attmansdeli.com
Located on Corn Beef Row — where else would it be? — this venerable deli was opened in 1915 by Harry Attman and is now run by his grandson. Attman’s is deli heaven. You can’t miss with the corned beef on Jewish rye or a tasty Reuben smothered in cheese. Other Jewish delights include matzo ball soup, potato latkes and knishes. And don’t you dare leave without trying the homemade rugglelach.
Pete’s Grille
3130 Greenmount Ave.
Baltimore 21218
410-467-7698
Famous for its daily breakfast and for being the restaurant of choice of the Olympic swimmer Michael Phelps, Pete’s Grille’s lunch has been overlooked for too long. The homemade daily specials come on plates piled high with helpings of meat and sides, and there’s always plenty of bread and butter. You also cannot go wrong with the burgers and sandwiches. Of course, you can always order a full breakfast for lunch, too. The 26 counter seats usually move pretty quickly so the wait is never too long.
DiPasquale’s
3700 Gough St.
Baltimore 21224
410-276-6787
www.dipasquales.com
Do the words salami, prosciutto, mortadella, capicola and soppressata mean anything to you? Well, if they don’t they should. These are just some of the Italian cold cuts offered at the family-owned DiPasquale’s. Wall-to-wall with Italian delicacies, DiPasquale’s also offers a full lunch service featuring hot and cold entrées. Their signature sandwich, “The Real Italian,” is layered with cold cuts and topped with olive oil, vinegar, grated cheese, lettuce, tomato, onions and peppers. Sounds like something even Tony Soprano couldn’t refuse.
Bear Creek Open Pit BBQ
Route 5
Callaway, MD 20620
301-994-1030
Who says you have to travel to the Deep South to get good barbecued pulled pork? You can just hightail it to St. Mary’s County to experience the smoky, finger-licking goodness. Place your order to go or eat in the newly added dining area. Besides offerings from the open-pit barbecue, patrons can indulge in chicken, chili and cornbread made specially to soak up the greasy goodness.
Pennsylvania Dutch Farmers Market in Annapolis
2472 Solomons Island Road (MD Route 2)
Annapolis, MD 21401
410-573-0770
Don’t let the shopping center set-up scare you away. Run by Amish and Mennonite families, the Pennsylvania Dutch Farmers Market in Annapolis is the genuine animal. Home-cooked three squares are available to eat in or you can take your goodies home. The baked goods are stellar. Don’t miss the authentic whoopie pie. Yum!
Chick and Ruth’s Delly
165 Main St.
Annapolis, MD 21401
410-269-6737
www.chickandruths.com
Attracting local politicos and lovers of all things deli, Chick and Ruth’s is a kitschy slice of Annapolis life that is not to be missed. Start your day with a bagel and schmear and join in on the daily recital of the Pledge of Allegiance, which occurs promptly at 8:30 a.m. Monday thru Friday and at 9:30 on the weekend. For lunch you can opt for sandwiches named after local politicians. Do you want fries with your Barbara Mikulski?
St. Mary’s Landing
29935 Three Notch Road
Charlotte Hall, MD 20622
301-884-3287
St. Mary’s Landing is a restaurant/tavern that can satisfy even the most discerning Marylander with its softball-sized crab cakes, spicy shrimp boil and barbecue ribs. But the real star here is the St. Mary’s Stuffed Ham, available for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Soaked in water for 12 hours and then stuffed with greens, the ham is a pure culinary treasure.
Ben’s Chili Bowl
1213 U St., N.W.
Washington, D.C. 20009
202-667-0909
www.benschilibowl.com
Although Ben’s Chili Bowl is not in Maryland, not mentioning it in an article about local road food would be an egregious crime — and I’m not looking for retribution from the greasy-spoon gods. Steeped in history, Ben’s has weathered race riots, urban blight and drug wars. This can only be attributed to Ben’s tried-and-true, stick-to-your-ribs cuisine. The chili dog reigns supreme at Ben’s, but you can also indulge in chili, burgers and outstanding milkshakes.
ANDRE FARNUM is a caterer, event planner and entertaining specialist with more than 20 years of culinary experience. Before turning to catering, Farnum worked for four years as a police officer in New York City. Visit her website at www.kitchen-goddess.com.
