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New Bites

Ambrosia from Two Italian Legends

DiPasquale's & Trinacria have served Baltimore for a century

February 21, 2008
By Kerry Dunnington
Photography By Bryan Burris

 
Ambrosia from Two Italian Legends Wild Porcini Mushroom Lasagna.
 

A few years ago I formed a cooking club. The only prerequisite for membership was a passion for food. Club member David Frank is as passionate about food as he is about letting you in on something new and different. When he handed me a can of Exclusivo Wild Porcini mushroom sauce, he said, “This is the best sauce I’ve ever tasted; let me know what you think.” After a look at the ingredients — eggplant, tomatoes, onions, garlic, olive oil, wild porcini mushrooms, celery, carrots and several seasonings — I knew I wanted to try it.

Even after years of taste testing and experimenting with new food products, I never experienced quite the sensation I had when I opened the can of Exclusivo. It was ambrosial; golden olive oil swam atop crimson

sauce. Not only is the sauce’s aroma delicious, but I also endorse any company that cares enough about its product to line the interior of its cans with enamel.

I also applaud stores that have managed to keep sales strong during the decades-long onslaught of large supermarkets. Today, small, independent specialty stores are back in vogue. I have always supported such companies and am grateful that customers are discovering them. Trinacria opened its doors in 1900, DiPasquale’s in 1914. Both shops are still family-owned.

What sets them apart from the competition? They bank on personalized service and on the unique variety and quality of the products they carry. Exclusivo can be found at both stores. Says Joe DiPasquale: “Small stores support the small companies that larger stores don’t want to fool with.” At Trinacria and DiPasquale’s, you will find all sorts of groceries and just about everything needed to make the lasagna and mozzarella-ball recipes below.

(If the thought of making lasagna is daunting, let me tell you a secret: You don’t need to precook the noodles.)

Assembly time for this recipe is about 30 minutes. Don’t get too caught up in assembling perfect layers or distributing the ricotta mixture perfectly; the ingredients distribute during cooking. Soft cheeses like fresh mozzarella are difficult to shred using a shredder. I prefer to hand-shred, pulling off small pieces of cheese. The lasagna can be prepared in advance. If refrigerating, allow time for the lasagna to come to room temperature before putting it in the oven to reheat. Last but not least, let the lasagna rest for 15 minutes before serving. This allows the dish to set, making it easier to cut. Serve with a tossed salad and rustic Italian bread.

Fried Mozzarella Balls

Amazingly simple to prepare. The first time I made these morsels, my husband (my official taste tester) and I could not stop eating them. They are decadent dipped in the Wild Porcini mushroom sauce. The balls can be prepared in advance and refrigerated; allow them to come to room temperature before frying.

  • One pound whole-milk mozzarella cheese, cut into chunks
  • 2 eggs
  • 3 tablespoons flour, plus more for rolling
  • 1/2 cup canola oil
  • Salt, optional
  • Exclusivo Wild Porcini mushroom sauce (serve the sauce heated or at room temperature)

Process mozzarella in a food processor until a ball forms (this takes several minutes); add eggs and 3 tablespoons flour, process until fully combined. Shape into one-inch balls and roll in flour. In a large skillet, heat canola oil over moderate heat. (Too high a heat will brown the balls too quickly.) Fry balls in batches until golden all around. Sprinkle with salt and serve immediately. About 40 one-inch balls.

What to drink? DiPasquale’s and Trinacria offer an array of wines. I recommend serving Chianti.

Wild Porcini Mushroom Lasagna

  • 2 eggs
  • Two 15-ounce containers part-skim ricotta cheese
  • 3/4 pound handmade fresh mozzarella cheese, cut in half, hand-shredded
  • 1/2 cup fresh grated Parmesan cheese, divided
  • 1/2 cup fresh parsley, minced
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • Black pepper to taste
  • One 28-ounce can Wild Porcini mushroom sauce (olive oil naturally comes to the top; stir sauce before using)
  • 9 lasagna noodles, uncooked

In a large bowl, lightly beat eggs. Add ricotta, half of the mozzarella, 3/4 cup Parmesan, parsley, salt and pepper. Mix until fully combined. Spoon one cup of Wild Porcini sauce into a 13- x 9-inch (3-quart) baking dish. Top sauce with 3 uncooked lasagna noodles in a single layer. Spread — for ease and even distribution, use your hand — one-third of the ricotta mixture over the noodles. Top the ricotta with one cup of sauce, then top sauce with 3 noodles and another layer of the ricotta mixture. For the uppermost layer, top ricotta mixture with 3 noodles, the remaining ricotta mixture and the remaining mozzarella. Sprinkle Parmesan over mozzarella and top with remaining sauce. Cover and bake in a preheated 350 oven for 45 minutes. Remove cover and bake for 15 minutes more. Allow lasagna to cool for 15 minutes before serving.

Where to buy

DiPasquale’s Gourmet
Italian Market Place and Deli
3700 Gough St.,
Baltimore (Highlandtown)
410-276-6787

Trinacria Macaroni Works
406 N. Paca St.
Baltimore
410-685-7285

Kerry Dunnington, a menu and recipe developer, does cooking demonstrations at Whole Foods Markets and other locations. Author of This Book Cooks, Kerry also writes a column for the Baltimore, Washington, D.C., and San Francisco weekend editions of The Examiner. She writes a monthly column for baltimore eats magazine. Kerry’s second cookbook, This Book Cooks Too, will be available soon. Visit www.thisbookcooks.com.

 
 
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