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A Fling with the Exotic

A new import lights up the table

July 29, 2008
By Kerry Dunnington
Photography by Bryan Burris

 
A Fling with the Exotic Carica Cardamom Frozen Yogurt
 

In my ongoing quest to discover new tastes, I set up a tour of Avenue Gourmet, an Owings Mills warehouse stocked with high-end products sold in specialty grocery stores. I was given free rein to “shop” the products in the showroom.

While poking through the crowded shelves, I spotted a jar filled with a vibrant yellow something that looked like fruit. The label announced it as Chilean carica … hmm … never heard of it. Avenue Gourmet owner Patricia Lobel explained that Chilean carica had only recently made its debut Stateside.

It’s been said that consumers buy with their eyes, especially when purchasing gourmet food products. It sure worked with me; I was “buying” with my eyes when I spotted carica, even though it was jammed among hundreds of other products. It stands out!

The certified kosher fruit is displayed in handsome, environmentally friendly glass jars — guaranteed to please today’s consumers. Labeling is clear, allowing the buyer to see the beautiful, vibrant, golden-yellow fruit. The label is also designed to peel easily from the jar, a feature I fully appreciate since the jars can be recycled or used for future food storage.

A card strung to the neck of the jar not only includes a brief description of the fruit and its origin, but also features multicolored images showing various ways that carica may be served.

Chilean carica, also known as Chilean mountain papaya or Chilean golden papaya, resembles papaya in flavor and texture. Growing this exotic fruit requires a specific soil and certain climate conditions. Carica trees grow in the Limari Valley, north of Santiago, Chile, and slightly below the Atacama Desert, famed for being the driest place on Earth. A delicacy in Chile for centuries, carica finally is being grown in quantities large enough for export.

In addition to the suggestions offered on the card, I have found other ways to serve this versatile fruit. The recipes featured here received top billing among the many creations I made. But other pairings proved delicious as well, such as carica blended with assorted mixed berries and a banana for a tasty, colorful, nutritious and creamy breakfast drink. For a healthy snack, luncheon side dish or dessert, fill carica fruit halves with low-fat cottage cheese and top with summer berries and garnish with mint leaves. Add carica as you would any other fruit to pancakes, waffles, cereal and tarts. Carica also complements savory foods such as seafood, lamb, grilled chicken and roasted pork. Slivers of carica are beautiful when used to garnish plates.

Let your imagination run wild — this is one fun, exotic “new fruit” that has endless possibilities.


Carica Cardamom Frozen Yogurt

Cardamom (related to ginger), with its aromatic scent and slight lemony flavor, is exceptional when combined with vanilla yogurt and carica. The first time I prepared this recipe, my husband and I devoured it in one sitting! A second testing also earned rave reviews. This is simple to assemble and makes an elegant do-ahead dessert for spring and summer evenings.

TIPS: The yogurt should be just soft enough so you can easily fold in the carica and cardamom. If you let the yogurt get too soft, the fruit will sink to the bottom.

For optimum flavor, cardamom should be fresh. If it’s six months or older, replace it.

  • 1 quart vanilla frozen yogurt, semi-soft
  • 2 teaspoons ground cardamom
  • 1 piece carica fruit, finely chopped

In a large bowl, combine semi-soft yogurt with cardamom and carica. Place in a container and freeze until serving time. Serves 8.


Rainbow Salad with Celery Seed Dressing

What a great time of year to prepare a refreshing salad with lots of flavor, texture and color. Valbreso brand French feta cheese, found in the gourmet cheese section, is tangier than most feta and works well in this salad. The salad ingredients can be prepared in advance; toss with dressing and top with feta and cashews just before serving. Plan ahead, as avocados take a few days to ripen. A ripe avocado yields to slight pressure.

  • 4 cups purple cabbage, shredded
  • 1 piece carica, chopped
  • 1 ripe avocado, cut into bite-size pieces (prepare just before serving)
  • 1/2 red pepper, cut into bite-size pieces
  • 2 green onions, thinly sliced
  • 1/2 cup Valbreso French feta cheese, crumbled
  • 1/2 cup roasted and salted cashews
  • Celery Seed Dressing (recipe at right)
  • Salt and pepper to taste

In a large bowl, gently toss the cabbage, carica, avocado, red pepper and green onions. Lightly coat salad with the dressing and toss to combine evenly. Toss in feta cheese and cashews. Season with salt and pepper. Serves 4-6.


Celery Seed Dressing

This popular and versatile dressing is delicious tossed with salad greens, cold pasta dishes and fruit. It will last for several days in the refrigerator. For optimum flavor, the dressing should be at room temperature before tossing.

  • 1/3 cup sugar
  • 1 teaspoon salt
  • 1 teaspoon dry mustard
  • 1 teaspoon fresh minced onion
  • 1/4 cup apple cider vinegar
  • 1 cup canola oil
  • 1 teaspoon celery seed

In a medium bowl, combine sugar, salt and dry mustard. Add onion and vinegar. Gradually add oil in a slow stream and whisk constantly until mixture is fully emulsified. Stir in celery seeds. Yields 1-1/2 cups.

Where to Buy

Check specialty grocery stores such as Eddie’s of Roland Park or Whole Foods Market, or visit Avenue Gourmet’s online store at www.avenuegourmet.com.


KERRY DUNNINGTON, a menu and recipe developer, does cooking demonstrations at Whole Foods Market and other locations. Author of This Book Cooks, Kerry also writes a column for the Baltimore, Washington, D.C., and San Francisco weekend editions of The Examiner. She writes a monthly column for baltimore eats magazine. Kerry’s second cookbook, This Book Cooks Too, will be available soon. Visit www.thisbookcooks.com.