Dessert Wines
June 19, 2007
By Monyka Berrocosa
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“Compared to a staid Sauvignon Blanc or a commonsense Cabernet, dessert wine might seem frivolous — a folly, an indulgent pleasure.
Granted, their sweetness and often considerable expense per ounce can make dessert wines seem “de trop” — too much, even daunting. But if you like an indulgence now and then, dessert wines are a great way to go.
“Most people stay clear of dessert wines because they don’t know what to buy,” says Vicki Schassler, co-owner of Baltimore’s Spirits of Mount Vernon. Once they understand that there are many kinds of dessert wines and actually try them, “they become fans,” she says. “It’s hard not to.”
I recently collaborated on a wine dinner with Chef Ann Nault of Baltimore’s Taste Restaurant. From the very beginning we thought outside the bottle and brazenly paired a sweeter wine … with the soup course. Soup courses are often neglected when it comes to wine pairings; likewise, sweeter wines are given little opportunity to shine outside the actual dessert arena. (Except for the widely accepted and divine combination of foie gras and Sauternes, that is.) That evening, the “dessert” wine was a tawny port and the dish a robust Roquefort soup. The combination was surprising, elegant and, dare I say, heavenly. Though it perplexed some at first, most of the diners were won over by the end of the course and many vowed to try it at home.
For some reason dessert wines, like Champagnes, are all too often perceived as esoteric — only for certain situations and occasions. Nothing could be further from the truth. They can be incredibly versatile — and no, I don’t just mean for pairing with different desserts. True, the residual sugar, often-higher alcohol level and flat-out, at times, viscosity can be a little overwhelming to the untrained taster. But “Stickies,” as those Down Under call them, can be a delightful addition to any meal. They also make a great, elegant gift.
Before delving into this seductive world of sweet sips, it pays to have a little knowledge. Not all sweet wines are created equal and not all are actually sweet. Sweet wines have as many styles as dry wines.
Common Methods Involved In Producing Sweet Wines:
Frozen on the vine — Grapes are left to freeze intentionally on the vine to concentrate the sugars.
Late harvest — The grapes are left longer on the vine to let the sugars build.
Wines made with dried grapes — The grapes are spread out and either dried in the sun or indoors in a warm, dry place.
Botrytised or “noble rot” wines — The grapes are intentionally infected (naturally or otherwise) with the Botrytis fungus to cause the grapes to lose moisture and concentrate sugars.
Mechanically frozen — The grapes are frozen by the winemaker through cryoextraction.
Intentional addition of sugar and wine — This is a method used to boost existing sugar content and promote a secondary fermentation (as in the case of demi sec Champagnes and sweeter sparkling wines).
Fortification — The intentional addition of extra alcohol eventually yields a higher level of residual sugar, producing a sweeter taste.
Now, which sweet wines do you serve when — and with what?
As I indicated above, sweet wines are much more versatile than you might think. True, they might not be what you would pair with a steak, but nothing else marries as well as a sweeter wine and foie gras, especially a Sauternes or a Botrytised style. (See below.)
If foie gras isn’t your thing, sweet wines can be paired with a variety of cheeses, especially blue-veined and sharp cheeses. They are also delicious with fruit desserts (provided there is a balance between acid and sweetness — sweet on top of sweet can taste sickly). Be sure to stick with desserts that are slightly less sweet than the wine you are serving and you should be fine. Sweet wines also tend to go well with nuts, largely because many have nutty overtones themselves; the flavors complement each other.
A glass of delicious sweet wine — port, for example — with a chocolate dessert can be heavenly.
The better sweet wines need only to be served with a smile. A glass of sweet wine is perfectly decadent and enjoyable, a single perfect flower. It needs no further embellishment.
White sweet wines are traditionally served chilled (somewhere in the neighborhood of 48 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit); it is also perfectly acceptable to serve them at room temperature. Sparkling sweet wines should be served cold, especially in the case of demi sec Champagnes or Proseccos.
Most sweeter reds, tawnies, sherries and the like are best served at room temperature. However, Brachetto d’Aqui, a sweeter Italian sparkler, begs to be chilled or the bubbles won’t dance.
If you don’t finish the bottle, store the leftovers close-capped in the fridge.
Some Sweeties to get you started
R.L. Buller Tawny Port Victoria
AUSTRALIA | 750ML | about $15
Moscato d’Asti Cascina La Ghersa 2003
ITALY | 375 ML | about $15
Royal Tokay Wine Company
Red Label 5 Puttonyos 2000
HUNGARY | 500 ML | about $35
Chateau Haut-Bergeron, Sauternes 2002
FRANCE | 750ML | about $50
Peller Estate Riesling Icewine 2004
CANADA | 375ML | about $65
MONYKA BERROCOSA, a food and wine professional, is the founder of The Women’s Wine & Dine®. For information, visit www.womenandwineevents.com. Monyka also recently launched MyCity4Her, Inc., an online community for women in business. Visit www.baltimore4her.com. Monyka can be reached at grap...@gmail.com.
